Nepal has long regarded tourists from around the world as esteemed guests, following the principle of Atithi devo bhava (the guest is God) and wholeheartedly welcomed them. Of the tourists who enter Nepal, millions of Indians flock to this side of the border to visit sacred sites such as Pashupatinath, Muktinath, Swargadwari, Supadeurali, Manakamana, as well as Kailash-Mansarovar through Nepal, thanks to the open border between the two countries. Last month alone, over 40,000 Indians entered Nepal by air, marking the highest monthly total on record. Additionally, many more arrive by land each year, and their numbers are increasing significantly.

But lately, Indian religious tourists have increasingly been seen cooking, eating and resting by the roadside, completely bypassing Nepal’s hotel industry, making Nepalis wonder whether they actually contribute to our economy. There are also concerns that such activities may compromise the sanctity and cleanliness of religious sites and the surroundings of Pokhara and other tourist and religious places. This raises an important question: Does Nepal have enough infrastructure to accommodate millions of Indian tourists visiting the country? The answer is no; Nepal remains ill-prepared to do so. India’s pilgrimage rush only lays bare our own shortcomings as many religious sites lack basic infrastructure, including good roads, dharmashalas to accommodate pilgrims, sanitation, vegetarian food options, restaurants and information management. Consequently, many pilgrims look to make their own alternate arrangements.

Religious tourists, especially from India, do contribute to Nepal’s economy. Unlike leisure tourism, which is affected by economic downturns and travel trends, pilgrimage is driven by faith, and this is exactly what drives Indian tourists to Nepal. According to tourism ministry officials, even though pilgrims generally don’t stay in hotels, they spend on transport, food, souvenirs and road tolls, keeping local businesses and transport services afloat. They then repeatedly return to those trails, and in turn inspire hundreds of would-be visitors to visit Nepal, indirectly contributing to the country’s economy.

In response to videos of people cooking by the roadside circulating on social media, the tourism ministry has issued guidelines for tourists entering Nepal by land, advising them to maintain the cleanliness of religious sites. Those who violate the rules will be punished. The guideline also asks pilgrims to obtain permission from the relevant authorities before using open spaces for cooking. Taking advantage of the tourist influx, local units could generate income by designating specific places where they can cook, manage waste and rest for a while. A small service fee could be charged.

However, the guideline misses an important point: accommodation. As tourists are seen resting in open spaces using their own tents and also sleeping in vehicles, this doesn’t help hoteliers, who would otherwise manage them and earn some money. Alternatively, there can be low-cost, government-regulated camping sites that meet basic cleanliness standards, so people who can’t afford a guesthouse don’t have to resort to sleeping in vehicles. These measures are expected to provide a temporary solution, but long-term plans are even more necessary.

Nepal has seen demand for pilgrimage-friendly infrastructure grow for years, yet infrastructure development has not been proactive. Acknowledging this, the incumbent government aims to build more dharmashalas and expand vegetarian food options from the next fiscal year. Additionally, efforts will be made to catalogue vegetarian hotels and restaurants along key pilgrimage routes from Bhairahawa to Pokhara and on to Muktinath. Related information would be provided at border crossings. This is a welcome move that should be implemented without delay. If the country can get these basics right, religious tourism from India could see a new boom, to the benefit of both pilgrims and their host country.