Every year, certain skincare trends gain huge online attention, either becoming widely tried or quickly fading away. This momentum is driven by influencer advice, paid promotions, and viral videos showcasing instant aesthetic transformations designed for maximum engagement. But what often gets overlooked is that what works for one person may not work for another, given differences in skin type, environment, treatment history, and genetics.

From healing gut health for better skin to the use of salmon sperm in skincare products, 2025 saw a mix of both logical and unusual trends promising better skin. While some of these practices may yield positive results, following viral routines without understanding their suitability can worsen skin conditions or cause unknown side effects.

Debunking whether these trends actually work or not, Dr Isha Poudel Koirala, the founder and dermatologist at Aesthetic Aura Skin & Hair Clinic, shares her analysis on five of 2025’s trends. Koirala specialises in aesthetic dermatology.

Dissolvable collagen masks

Considered to have a ‘glass-skin’ effect on skin, collagen sheet masks, upon skin contact, gradually melt on the skin.

Collagen molecules are too large to penetrate the stratum corneum (the outermost layer of your skin), let alone reach the dermis (the thick middle layer of skin where native collagen resides). These masks work solely by hydrating the outermost skin layer, creating a temporary surface plumping effect that mimics firmness. Once the mask is removed and the water evaporates, any visible improvement fades within hours. True collagen synthesis cannot be triggered by the topical application of intact collagen, making these masks an expensive alternative to simple hydrating sheet masks or even a damp cloth.

Double cleansing

A method that involves just two products: an oil cleanser and a water-based

face wash for better removal of residues beyond the surface level of the face.

This two-step method effectively removes water-resistant sunscreen, heavy makeup, and excess sebum. Using an oil cleanser first, then a water-based cleanser, can be effective for makeup removal. However, for individuals who wear only light sunscreen or no makeup, double cleansing is unnecessary and potentially stripping. A single, gentle, water-based cleanser formulated for the face is sufficient for daily use. Over-cleansing can disrupt the skin’s natural moisture barrier, leading to dryness, irritation, or rebound oiliness (a condition where your skin overproduces sebum). Reserve double cleansing for occasions involving tenacious products, not as a daily ritual.

DIY slugging

A technique in which people lather a substantial amount of vaseline on their faces to strengthen the skin barrier before sleeping.

Applying a thick layer of petroleum jelly overnight creates an impermeable occlusive seal. While this reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL, the process of water leaving your body through the skin; ie, lower TEWL is better for the skin barrier), it also traps sweat, bacteria, and dead skin cells beneath the surface. For individuals prone to acne or folliculitis, this environment can exacerbate breakouts and cause congestion. Furthermore, standard moisturisers applied to damp skin already provide an effective barrier support without the risk of occlusion-related side effects. Slugging is best suited for non-acne-prone, severely dry skin, but under professional guidance.

Retinal eye creams

Especially relevant to K-beauty, retinal eye creams are used to reduce fine lines, wrinkles, and dark circles around the eye area.

Retinaldehyde, a vitamin A derivative, has theoretical benefits for collagen production and fine line reduction. However, the periocular skin (the surrounding area around your eyes) is significantly thinner and more sensitive than facial skin, making irritation, redness, and peeling common even with low concentrations. Clinical evidence for retinaldehyde specifically in eye creams remains limited, and many over-the-counter formulations contain unstable or insufficient active ingredients. Moreover, consistent sun protection and adequate sleep have a far greater impact on preventing and minimising fine lines than any topical retinoid applied around the eyes.

Pore vacuum devices

A device that removes dead skin cells through a suction tip, mainly seen as a solution for blackheads.

These handheld suction tools create negative pressure to extract surface sebum and superficial blackheads. The effect is purely temporary, as the pore’s size and structure are genetically determined and cannot be mechanically altered. Within days, the sebaceous glands refill the pore, returning it to its original appearance. Improper technique while using it, such as excessive suction, prolonged contact, or frequent use on inflamed skin, causes broken capillaries (your body’s smallest blood vessels), petechiae (tiny red or purple spots caused by bleeding under the skin), post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and even scarring. Gentle chemical exfoliation with salicylic acid or retinoids offers a safer, more evidence-based approach to pore management.