The highland pastures of Karnali province are set to open for the annual yarsagumba picking season in the final week of May. The high-value caterpillar fungus, prized for its purported medicinal as well as aphrodisiac properties, is mainly found in Mugu, Dolpa, Jumla, and the neighbouring district of Rukum East.

For the local residents, the commencement of the harvest season represents the most significant economic event of the year. However, the excitement of the 'Himalayan gold rush' is increasingly tempered by a sobering reality—a steady decline in yields and the growing risks faced by those who venture into the treacherous high altitude terrain.

In the years preceding the Covid pandemic, the pastures typically opened as early as April. However, for the past several seasons, local authorities have deliberately pushed the start date back. This year is no different.

As the season approaches, thousands of villagers are busy gathering essential supplies, primarily 'satu' (roasted flour), ghee, and heavy woollen clothing, as they prepare to spend over a month in the high-altitude wilderness.

Last year, the collection in Dolpa began on May 19. This delay is a calculated conservation move. Jitendra Mahat, chief of the Division Forest Office in Dolpa, explained that opening the pastures too early is detrimental to both the quality of the harvest and the ecology of the region.

"When the highlands are opened in April, the snow has often not melted sufficiently, and the yarsagumba has not reached maturity," said Mahat. "By delaying the opening until the end of May, we allow the natural reproductive processes of the fungus to progress further, which is essential for the long-term sustainability of the fungus."

To ensure a coordinated start, the Division Forest Office in Dolpa held a meeting of stakeholders on Tuesday to finalise logistics.

Last year alone, approximately 10,000 individuals entered the pastures within the national forests and the Shey Phoksundo National Park in Dolpa. Nurendra Aryal, the chief conservation officer of the park, reported that the revenue collected from harvesters amounted to Rs19.3 million.

To manage this influx, authorities have established nine separate entry posts. Famous harvesting sites such as Ruppatan, Chinarangsi, Majhdanda, Turi, Bagar, Phurke , Jairi remain the primary destinations for those seeking the valuable caterpillar fungus.

In Mugu, the Mugumkarmarong Rural Municipality takes the lead in managing the harvest. Last year, the local government collected nearly Rs 6.4 million in entry fees. "We apply a tiered fee structure for residents from within the district and those coming from elsewhere," said Chhiring Kyapne Lama, the chairman of the rural municipality. "To prevent illegal early harvesting and poaching, groups of local youth have been patrolling the high-altitude areas since mid-April. We are on track to officially open the gates in the second week of Jestha (late May)."

For residents of Mugu, the entry fee was Rs 1,500 while outsiders were charged Rs 2,000 per person. The high pastures of Sanokoiki, Thulokoiki, Rimar and Tanke are amongst the most sought-after locations. Dinesh Jung Khatri, the Division Forest Officer in Mugu, noted that his office issued transport permits for approximately 40 kilograms of yarsagumba from Mugu last year, with the government royalty set at Rs 31,000 per kg.

Despite the institutional management, the human story behind the harvest is one of survival and desperation. For families like that of Kaman Budha from ward 4 of Tripurasundari Rural Municipality in Dolpa, the season is a high-stakes gamble. Budha is currently preparing to take his entire five-member family to the highlands.

"We start preparing at least six weeks in advance," he said. "The cost of food, gear, and travel is high, and we have to borrow money just to make the trip. But we have no choice," said Budha. "Yarsagumba is our primary source of livelihood. Without this income, we cannot cover our household expenses for the rest of the year."

Last year, Budha, accompanied by his wife and three sons, spent over a month at Ruppatan and returned with an income of Rs200,000.

Similarly, Paramal Shahi from ward 2 of Khatyad Rural Municipality in Mugu is preparing to depart with his wife, two sons, and two daughters-in-law. "A single piece of yarsagumba can sell for Rs1,000 right there on the mountain," said Shahi. "Our own farm production doesn't even feed us for three months. After deducting our travel and living expenses of around Rs40,000, the money we make on the pastures pays for our food and clothes for the entire year." According to him, the Shahi family earned Rs200,000 last season.

Declining production, rising prices

While the market price for yarsagumba in the international market continues to climb, the harvest gradually declines. This creates a crisis for yarsa pickers. Purna Bahadur Devkota, from ward 1 of Athbiskot Municipality in Rukum West, has been harvesting the fungus for 15 years. Last year, he and his wife Janaki spent Rs50,000 on their expedition but earned only Rs120,000.

"We stayed for 23 days and managed to collect barely 150 pieces," lamented Devkota. "To find them, you have to crawl across vertical cliffs and navigate through treacherous rockfaces. The risk of falling or succumbing to altitude sickness is constant. It is quite risky. But in the absence of other jobs or opportunities, what choice do we have?"

Narsingh Rokaya, the chairman of Jagdulla Rural Municipality in Dolpa, said the frustration among locals is palpable. "Our people are traditionally farmers and herders, but the soil here is not fertile enough. Yarsagumba was the great equaliser, but the diminishing returns are leaving many families in debt rather than prosperity," he said.

From a commercial perspective, the market remains robust. Yagya Bahadur Budhthapa, a herbs trader, said that 90 percent of Karnali’s yarsagumba eventually ends up in China. "After the season ends, Chinese traders travel to Kathmandu to negotiate prices. Before the pandemic, a kilogram sold for around Rs2.8 million. Last year, that price rose to Rs3.2 million," he said. "While the global demand is high, the price offered to local collectors has remained relatively stagnant for the last four or five years."

The biological reason for this decline is a combination of overharvesting and environmental shifts. Botanist Kamal Sharma suggests that the three-year hiatus during the pandemic, which some hoped would allow the species to recover, may not have been enough to offset larger ecological changes. "We are seeing the cumulative impact of erratic rainfall, increased human encroachment, forest degradation, and climate change," said Sharma. "When it doesn’t snow at the right time, the reproductive cycle of the (ghost moth) caterpillar is interrupted."

Data from the provincial government confirms this downward trend. From a harvest of 409 kilograms in the 202-23 fiscal year, the volume dropped to 354 kilograms the following year, and fell further to 310 kilograms in the last fiscal year of 2024-25. Surya Sharma, the information officer at the Provincial Forest Directorate, noted that the trend is deeply concerning for the provincial economy.

Min Bahadur KC, a former forest official involved in a recent study in Karnali, pointed out that the fungus is increasingly absent from areas where it was once abundant. "The life cycle of Ophiocordyceps sinensis is inextricably linked to snow cover. The larvae of the ghost moth remain underground until the snow melts in late spring," said KC. "With less snow falling in the lower reaches of the pastures, the larvae simply aren't surviving. Furthermore, the unregulated grazing of livestock is damaging the delicate topsoil where the fungus grows."

Researcher Laxman Sharma, who specialises in high-altitude conservation, said a 'vertical migration' of the species. "Historically, yarsagumba was found between 3,000 and 5,500 metres. Now, it is becoming increasingly rare below 4,000 metres. Climate change is pushing the viable habitat higher up the mountains," he said.

The arduous journey to highlands, risking lives

The physical toll of the harvest is perhaps the most harrowing aspect of the trade. To reach the collection sites, villagers must trek for days through vertical terrain, often carrying loads weighing up to 50 kilograms.

Daribhan Budha of ward 11 of Kaike Rural Municipality in Dolpa described the journey as a four-day ordeal through wilderness where there are no established paths. "You go to the highland in a matter of days. And the sudden change in altitude can be deadly," he said.

Data from the Karnali Provincial Police Office underscore the danger. Over the last three years, 26 people have died on the pastures. Last year alone, five collectors lost their lives—three in Dolpa, one in Mugu, and one in Jumla.

Police also reported 29 injuries and 33 emergency rescues of collectors suffering from severe altitude sickness last year. Deputy Inspector General of Police Jayaraj Sapkota, the provincial police chief, attributed these tragedies to the harsh geography, heavy snowfall, and a lack of proper mountain safety gear among the collectors.

In response, the provincial government claims it is working on a long-term plan. Suresh Adhikari, the provincial Minister for Industry, Tourism, Forest and Environment, said the goal is to formalise the herbal trade and improve safety. "The herbal economy is vital for the prosperity of Karnali," said Adhikari. "We are exploring better ways to market and conserve it to ensure that this resource continues to support our livelihoods for years to come."

Manang’s highlands open

While Karnali prepares, the harvest has already begun in Manang, a mountain district in Gandaki province.

The collection kicked off last week at Namgya Kharka, a pasture on the border of Naso and Narpa Bhumi rural municipalities. To manage this specific area, a sub-committee headed by Yad Ghale, ward 8 chairman of Naso Rural Municipality, has been formed.

"We began issuing permits on Wednesday, and nearly 100 collectors have already reached the highlands," said Ghale. The fees in Manang are significantly higher than in the west. According to him, Rs12,000 set for district residents and Rs17,000 for those from outside the district. To maintain order, the committee has banned alcohol and gambling in the collection camps.

Harvest management in Manang is governed by strict regulations, including the Conservation Area Management Rules of 1996. Dhak Bahadur Bhujel, the chief of the Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) in Manang, explained that all collectors must obtain permits from the local Conservation Area Management Committees.

Last year, Manang produced 112 kilograms of Yarsagumba, involving 1,524 permit holders.

(With inputs from Aash Gurung in Lamjung)