Travel
High trails and hearty laughs
From Manang’s apple farms to the icy calm of Tilicho Lake, this journey offered more than stunning views.Aarya Chand
One morning on a fading Tuesday of our vacation, I couldn't shake off the worry that my hard-earned savings from tutoring were slipping away faster than I’d planned. Out of nowhere, I messaged my friend Santona on a whim: ‘A trip to Rara’. With little hope, I awaited her reply, and I have no idea what I’d have done if she had denied it. However, just like the phrase “waiting for the nudge,” she enthusiastically agreed, and soon we roped in our friend, Nirjara.
This wasn’t our first trip together—we’d ventured to Pokhara, tried bungee jumping, paragliding, and trekked trails like Khuma and Korchan since our first year of bachelor studies. My idea this time was a well-packaged tour, but plans changed, and new destinations were chosen. The pristine Tilicho Lake became our goal. Without overthinking, I agreed; after all, it’s Nepal and here, no matter where you decide to trek, you’ll experience heaven.
From Kathmandu to Manang: Green Lake and apple delights
Travelling to Manang was a meditative experience in itself. As a scout exploring different parts of Nepal, I had often embraced the rush of adventure. But here, by the serene Green Lake under the sun's warm glow, I felt a genuine sense of accomplishment: ‘We’ve finally made it—without getting lost and in the right place.’ We clicked photos, laughed, and even made some silly TikTok videos. The famous apple farms of Manang called out to us with their irresistible offer: a feast of apples for just Rs200. If you’re travelling here, catching the early bus ensures Manang’s charm unfolds entirely by the end of the day.
Khangsar to Tilicho Base Camp: rocks and rants
An early morning jeep ride brought us to Khangsar. The trek was said to take 5-6 hours, but once we started, I moved ahead of my friends, a habit I don’t quite understand. I wondered if my friends would make it before dark. To my relief, their laughter and chatter soon filled the air, joining me.
Then we set off into the landslide area, with jagged rocks above hanging like wind chimes ready to fall. We promised not to look up and remained focused on the trail. The journey was filled with everyday conversations from patriarchy to childhood TV shows, and before we knew it, the night wrapped around us as we arrived at the base camp. After some confusion over our booking, we finally settled in, ate quickly, and fell asleep. One tip: keep an eye on your things at Shrikharka—I lost my trekking poles there.
Tilicho Lake: A view, a void, and acceptance
Morning arrived. We emptied our room and set out, uncertain if we’d return in time and head straight to Shrikharka or stay the night again at base camp. One friend battled altitude sickness but pushed on fiercely, even bargaining for a horse ride, only to find me eventually outpacing it.
As I neared the lake, the solitude and distance overwhelmed me. I called my father, who offered only a few comforting words before the line dropped. Thankfully, friends from home Nuya and Shri reached out, and I poured my thoughts to them through tears. With renewed spirit, I moved forward and finally reached a quiet pond that tricked me into thinking I’d arrived. Only after some guidance did I stand before the actual Tilicho Lake.
Strangely, I felt no rush of joy. The sight was majestic, yet my reaction fell flat. I asked myself if it was okay to feel so indifferent. However, I accepted that sometimes it’s okay to feel nothing at all. A simple “I don’t know” was all the answers I needed.
We had no rooms left on our last night at base camp, so we slept in a dorm, which was a cheaper and warmer option. After dinner, my friends drifted off, but I lingered by the fire, unwilling to leave its comfort. The dining hall was full of trekkers glued to their seats even after finishing their food until a friendly trek guide offered us seats. These guides, cheerful and chatty, shared fun stories and gossip.
Ultimately, I want to say to all who recently went trekking, whether funded by parents or your hard-earned savings, to be proud and grateful for the opportunity to explore. And for those who couldn’t go this time, trust that your moment will come. Keep moving forward with hope, knowing that one day, your adventure awaits.