For years, I’ve been exploring different parts of Nepal, sparking both curiosity and concern from my parents, especially during the initial phase of my solo travels. However, they became more at ease with my weekend adventures as time went on. I even started taking them on trips, primarily to religious and accessible destinations. One particularly memorable journey was our family trip to Supaderuali, where we shared laughter and created lasting memories.

This time, however, was different. It was a regular day after work, and I was in my room in Shantinagar. As I scrolled through social media, I stumbled upon a post about Ama Yangri, a serene peak surrounded by a 360-degree panorama of mountains, nestled in the Helambu Rural Municipality of Sindhupalchowk District. Without overthinking, I impulsively decided to embark on my first adventure of 2025.

They say the best plans aren’t planned, and this trip proved it true. Helambu, a highland village in Sindhupalchok District, holds significant cultural and spiritual value as the sacred site of Lord Padmasambhava, Milarepa, and Guru Rinpoche. Just 80 kilometres from Kathmandu, this area is rich in Hyolmo culture, home to endangered wildlife, and offers unparalleled natural beauty. Despite its allure, it remains relatively unexplored by visitors.

The next day, I grabbed my pre-packed bag, started my scooter, and embarked on my journey. My route took me from Shantinagar to Chabahil and then onto the Melamchi road, which greeted me with breathtaking natural views. The roads were flanked by lush forests, mountain ranges, and diverse flora and fauna, each sight urging me onward.

Through the dust and warm smiles

The aftermath of the 2015 earthquake and the 2021 Melamchi Valley flood scarred parts of the Melamchi region. The roads beyond Melamchi Bazaar were dusty and off-road in places but surprisingly manageable for my scooter. From Chanauta, the uphill trail led me to Nalang Kharka, where the ‘Great Trail Homestay’ awaited. Despite the dust, the road’s off-road conditions allowed my scooter to navigate comfortably.

Eventually, I arrived at my lunch destination: Tharchen Sherpa’s House No 9, where I had booked a stay. Mrs Sherpa (as she is popularly called) greeted me with a warm smile and rosy cheeks, her hospitality evident from the moment I arrived. She explained that her house had been destroyed in the 2015 earthquake and rebuilt since then. Now, it could accommodate up to six tourists. However, with a tinge of sadness, she shared how once bustling with visitors, the region now rarely saw any tourists.

As she spoke, Mrs Sherpa prepared Tsajya, a salty Tibetan tea. Its unique flavour was unlike anything I had ever tasted, warming me from the inside out. Her kitchen reflected the traditional Sherpa culture, with meals cooked over a wood fire.

During our conversation, she explained the origin of the name Helambu: in the Sherpa language, “Ha” means potato, and “Labu” means radish, two crops once abundantly cultivated in the region. Over time, the name evolved into Helambu. She also described how the area, originally the homeland of the Hyolmo people, now encompassed diverse communities, including Brahmins, Tamangs, and others, alongside Buddhism and Hinduism. The federal governance system had further reshaped Helambu, transforming it into a rural municipality rich in both cultural and natural diversity.

Though I wished I could linger longer, my ultimate destination was Ama Yangri, so I resumed my journey. Before I left, Mrs Sherpa suggested I visit the Great Trail on the way to Ama Yangri. With the lingering taste of her handmade meal and her kind smile in my memory, I set off, ready to embrace the next leg of my adventure.

After a few kilometres of riding, I reached Ghopte Ghyang, a serene plateau sitting at an altitude of 2,300 meters. It was here that I embarked on the Guru Rinpoche Great Trail, a path steeped in spirituality and adorned with stunning natural beauty. The trail offered a mesmerising panorama of Himalayan peaks, including Semisidang, Dorje Lhakpa, Gang Chambo, Yuwa Peak, and Gauri Shankar. Alongside these towering giants, the lush rhododendron forests and breathtaking vistas of Langtang National Park further enriched the experience.

Following the trail, I encountered a local student who shared fascinating insights about its significance. The trail connects several key religious and tourist destinations, such as Shermathang, Jyomthang, Panch Pokhari, Ama Yangri, Dupu, Bhemthang, Pasang Giri, Gufu Pokhari, Jalansa, Dawalang Cave, and Semisidang. Its roots trace back to the rich history of the Hyolmo region, as described in the ancient scriptures of the Vajrayana sect of Buddhism.

I was fortunate to meet a teacher leading a group of students on a school tour. She elaborated on the trail’s historical and spiritual significance. It is closely linked to Padmasambhava, the revered founder of the Nyingma sect of Buddhism—also known as the “Second Buddha”. He had meditated in Helambu and spread his teachings before journeying to Tibet. His disciples later founded the Hyolmo community. The teacher explained that ancient Buddhist texts recount how Rigzin Thinley Dudjom, the son of Tibetan spiritual leader Surya Sengen, along with Helambu locals, were instructed to build a sacred wall around the site of Padmasambhava's meditation.

The trail’s concept, inspired by the Dharma Chakra—the sacred wheel of Dharma in Buddhism—made it feel like walking through a living piece of spiritual history. Along the route, I learned that it will eventually feature slate rock stairs, resting places, and Buddhist stupas at regular intervals, enhancing both its accessibility and sanctity.

As I continued, the beauty and significance of the trail made me feel that missing this journey would have been a lifetime regret. Yet, as much as I wanted to linger and explore further, the memory of my ultimate destination, Ama Yangri, spurred me on.

Reaching Ama Yangri

After a 30-40 minute scooter ride, I arrived at Ichok, a quaint village where I decided to rest with a cup of tea. The tea shop owner, a friendly and knowledgeable local, became my guide for the next steps of my journey. Upon asking about the route to Ama Yangri, he advised me to head directly to the Ama Yangri Base Camp at Chyomuthang. With a word of caution, he suggested booking a tent in advance, as weekends see a large influx of both local and foreign tourists, and the number of tents is limited. Following his advice, I called to reserve a tent and resumed my uphill journey.

The road to the base camp was an adventurous and thrilling ride, taking nearly two and a half hours. By the time I reached Ama Yangri Base Camp, darkness had already fallen. Despite the challenges of the journey, the moonlit mountain ranges, the warmth of a campfire, and the chilly winds made it a magical evening. Sharing stories and laughter around the fire with other visitors, I enjoyed a hearty dinner before retreating to my tent. The tents were well-maintained and cosy, equipped with warm blankets to ensure a restful sleep. Exhausted from the day’s ride and hike, I drifted off quickly.

A moonlit morning and a trek to heaven

I was awakened at 3 am by the sounds of activity outside. The entire camp seemed excited as everyone was preparing to climb the peak. Stepping outside, I was greeted by a surreal view—the moonlight illuminating snow-capped mountains. It was a sight I will never forget. Bundled up in a woollen cap, thick socks, gloves, and a heavy jacket, I grabbed a trekking stick and began my ascent.

The trek to Ama Yangri Peak was challenging but incredibly rewarding. The well-maintained trail was surrounded by pristine natural beauty. After a two-hour hike, I reached the summit just before sunrise. Standing at 3,770 meters, the panoramic views were nothing short of heavenly. Before the sun rose, the peaks of the Langtang Range, Gaurishankar, Dorje Lhakpa, Annapurna, and Manaslu were visible, their snow-covered splendour glistening in the faint moonlight.

As the first rays of the sun kissed the snow, the mountains seemed to turn to gold—a breathtaking spectacle that left me in awe. Locals believe that Ama Yangri, regarded as a deity, protects the region. It is said that visiting the peak brings good fortune, which adds a spiritual dimension to this already extraordinary experience.

After soaking in the mesmerising views and taking photographs to capture the moment, I began my descent to the base camp. Recalling the tea shop owner’s suggestion, I rode to Tarkeyghyang for lunch. Upon arrival, I found a warm spot near a fire and indulged in a delicious meal. The combination of hunger, the warmth of the fire, and the midday sun created a perfect moment of relaxation.

On my descent from Ama Yangri, I followed the suggestion of hotel owner Anu Lama and detoured to visit the Milarepa Gumba in Kharchung. This historic site holds immense significance for the locals, who revere Jetsun Milarepa not as a god but as an enlightened man. Born in the Gungthang province of Western Tibet, Milarepa is celebrated for his spiritual teachings and the transformation of his life. Known as the Tiger Cave Lion Fortress, this gumba is where Milarepa sang his iconic ‘Song of a Yogi’s Joys’. It is one of Helambu’s oldest monasteries, radiating Buddhism's deep spiritual essence.

Though I couldn’t explore everything Helambu had to offer due to time constraints, I left with a promise to return. There are still so many hidden gems waiting to be discovered in this remarkable district. Helambu’s beauty, spirituality, and resilience have left an indelible mark on my heart, ensuring that this is not just a trip but the beginning of a lifelong connection.