Donga Balung Sherpa, a resident of Olangchungola, a remote mountainous region in northeast Nepal bordering China, has returned to her daily weaving after a five-year hiatus.

Sherpa, from ward 7 in Phaktanglung Rural Municipality, has been working on the "thumbi," a traditional knotting system using a vertical loom.

Along with her, many women in the area have resumed their traditional carpet weaving job. The women could not continue weaving for several years due to the halt in carpet exports to neighbouring Tibet during the Covid pandemic.

Reopening the Tiptala Bhanjyang border point with Tibet on May 24 has significantly increased the demand for traditional carpets.

Chungdak Sherpa, another resident, has also devoted her time to weaving carpets. “I help my mother with household chores in the morning and spend most of my time weaving,” she said.

In Olangchung Gola, most villagers weave carpets. Men and women have distinct roles: Men herd yaks and assist their wives by setting up looms, cutting yarn, and selling carpets, while women focus on weaving.

Both men’s and women’s jobs were affected by the pandemic. Women reduced their weaving activities after no sales, while men shifted their focus to livestock farming. A few women tried selling carpets in the domestic market, but the business did not flourish.

Although the carpet business has resumed, the men’s livestock trade remains stagnant. Since the pandemic, China has not allowed livestock exports, particularly yaks. However, the resurgence of carpet weaving has led to more men assisting with the process.

Tashi Sherpa, a ward member of Phaktanglung-7, said carpets are a popular item in Tibetan markets. “Carpets are the fastest and best-selling export from Nepal,” he explained, adding that a single carpet can fetch 1,000 yuan (approximately Rs18,000).

“The Chinese prefer buying carpets in pairs, which Nepali women weave in matching ‘male’ and ‘female’ designs.”

The carpets are highly sought after for their affordability, durability, and decorative appeal. They are transported to various Tibetan cities, including Shigatse.

However, Nepali traders are restricted from directly taking the carpets beyond Rui and Ghumti; Tibetan traders handle further distribution.

Until nine years ago, it took three days to reach Rui Bazaar in Tibet from Olangchung Gola. With the construction of a road, Rui, 58 kilometres away, can be reached in five hours.

In 2017, the Chinese government provided workforce and equipment to upgrade the dirt track from Olangchung Gola to the border at Tiptala Bhanjyang into a motorable road.

Before the road was built, Nepali traders transported carpets from Phungling, the Taplejung district headquarters, to Bouddha in Kathmandu. Selling carpets domestically often required providing credit, and payments were delayed for years.

In contrast, Tibetan markets offer immediate cash transactions or quick bill settlements.

“It’s still the same in Nepali markets,” said Tenzing, a trader from Gola. “In Tibet, everything is settled in cash or promptly cleared with goods exchanges.”

Today, traders use vehicles to transport carpets from Olangchung Gola, eliminating the need for yak caravans.

Despite improved transportation, the region’s highlands lack commercial farming, and only basic crops like potatoes and vegetables are cultivated.

Since schools are near homes, women don’t need to spend much time dropping off or picking up children. After preparing meals, they dedicate their time to weaving. They often keep a thermos flask containing tea nearby for warmth and continue weaving even when guests visit.

A large carpet takes at least a week to complete. As an ancestral profession, most women learn the craft from their parents. They procure raw materials such as yarn and dyes from Kathmandu.

“We used to bring yarn from China, but it’s now cheaper in Kathmandu,” said Chungdak.

Some carpets are plain, while others are named “Olangchung Gola”. Custom orders with specific designs or text reflecting the buyer’s identity are also available at no extra cost.

Bishnu Shrestha, owner of the Taplejung Koseli House, said that employees and visitors to Taplejung often choose carpets as a ‘koseli’ (gift). He added that a carpet that sold for Rs3,000 a decade and a half ago now costs over Rs16,000.

Trader Mukti Poudel said that since the road opened to Tibet, finding Nepali carpets in the district headquarters has become harder.

This is due to increased access to the Chinese market, with higher demand and more reliable payments.

Carpet is one of Nepal's exportable items.

In the last fiscal year, carpet shipments from Nepal declined 8.12 percent to Rs10.57 billion. However, demand has been picking up this fiscal year.

According to the Department of Customs, Nepal exported carpets worth Rs4.96 billion in the first five months of the current fiscal year.