Bikas Rauniar revisits the ancient Indian city that has drawn him back year after year, exploring its spiritual character, photographic memories and deep historical ties with Nepal. A view of the ghats on the Ganga banks, Banaras, in 1989. Bikas Rauniar
Banaras, also known as Kashi, is a significant place for Nepalis; many came to get education. It also used to be a hub for Nepalis for their printing and publishing works. Later, many politicians chose this place when they had to flee Nepal and find a refuge. Nepal’s famous politicians such as BP Koirala, Ganesh Man Singh, Krishna Prasad Bhattarai, and Manmohan Adhikari spent quite a number of years in this spiritual city before returning to Nepal.
Gyanu Shrestha, a resident of Makhan Tole, Kathmandu who came to Banaras as part of a wedding party poses for a photo at theTulsi Ghat in 1989.
When I was planning my trip back to Calcutta recently, the city of pure joy, I was invited to Bombay for an important business meeting. Then I had to reroute my way to Calcutta via Bombay. Our travel agent was having difficulty booking tickets due to the ongoing festival season. Then co-incidentally, I also needed to be in Bhairahawa and strangely our travel agent called saying they can get my air ticket to Bombay from Banaras. I happily agreed and now I am flying to Bombay from Banaras on November 22 en route to Calcutta after a petty work in Bhairahawa.
A devotee takes a dip in the Ganga at Kedar Ghat, in Banaras in 1989.
I felt elated as I love Banaras. I have been visiting Banaras every year for the past three years after attending our annual Kul Puja at our ancestral village in Ballia, which is just three hours away. It has become an annual ritual of some sort.
Many visitors often feel they do not plan a trip to Banaras; the city draws them. I also felt the same.
A relative of a deceased person gets his head shaved after the funeral at Manikarnikaghat, Banaras in 1989.
The first time I visited was as a member of “Janti” for a wedding of my uncle Ashish Rauniar who was marrying a daughter of renowned Classical singer Rajan Mishra, Anju Mishra, in 1989. I was just a novice photographer then.
I looked at my archive for those pictures to do a photo story on the city I love returning to frequently.
A rickshaw puller and his passengers at Assi Road, in Banaras in 1989.
According to Hindu mythology, Banaras was established by lord Shiva and is considered the spiritual capital of India. Lord Buddha delivered his first sermon about 14 kms away in Sarnath. As our Prime Minister Balendra Shah is scheduled to visit New Delhi later this month, the importance of places like Banaras should not be overlooked while discussing Nepal and India relations.
Devotees taking holy dips in the Ganga at Namo Ghat in August 2024. Visitors and devotees attending the evening arati at Assi Ghat in Banaras, in August 2024. A man cremates a body in an alley near Manikarnika Ghat after the ghats were inundated by the Ganga in 2026. A dog on the boat near Dashashwamedh Ghat in 2026. Boats moored near the Harishchandra Ghat in August 2024. Local residents near the famous Kedar Vishwanath Temple in Banaras in August, 2024. A bull next to the local residents waiting for their tea at Santa Kabir Road in 2026.
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