Arid land, snow-capped mountains, barren hills and nothingness. We found ourselves in the smack, middle of nowhere, with not a soul in sight. Prayer flags fluttered and predatory birds overhead struggled to stay aflight against a battery of cold, dry gusts. Perhaps they were checking on if we were still moving. Drenched in sweat, out of breath and near-roasted from the midday sun, we were—barely. Spent, at the first pass we lay listless.